Winter melons set adrift

The first winter melon fruit turning yellow and starting to shrivel up

It was too good to be true. All the cucurbitaceae plants I’ve grown have gone through what I like to call Braxton Hicks contractions – they keep practising before the plants successfully set fruit and get to harvest.

So, I couldn’t believe my luck when the very first female winter melon flower appeared to set fruit and start growing bigger over the last week. I was also thrilled when I saw a second female flower just up the same vine.

Well, those potential winter melons have drifted over the horizon and are now just a wishful memory. I don’t know if it’s because that vine had branched out too much and couldn’t sustain the fruits, or if it just needed time to practice fruiting, but it was with a sinking heart that I saw the tip of the first fruit start to yellow yesterday, and start shriveling today as it turned more yellow.

You know how some people advise keeping just the main stem of a tomato plant to allow the plant to focus strength into the fruits on that single stem? Well, maybe I need to apply this philosophy with the winter melons, too. The vine has multiple branches, not all of which are strong. I think I am going to take a page from Mother Weed’s book and do some hard pruning this weekend – all unhealthy-looking stems on the winter melon vine are going to be history. Maybe then will the plant fulfill my hopes of growing a giant winter melon…

© 2012 curiousgardener.com All rights reserved.


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New additions to the edible garden

I have my gardening buddy, The Weed, to thank for some new “residents” in the garden. He has been more successful with seed-sowing than I have, and so I now have these new seedlings to nurture here:

At this point, they all look the same, but in this picture are two cucumber seedlings, two Clemson Spineless okra seedlings, and one each of the large bittergourd, wax gourd and pumpkin.

In retrospect, I’ve realized they are almost all cucurbitaceae plants – there are two cucumber plants, one large bittergourd plant, one wax gourd and another pumpkin – together with a pair of Clemson Spineless Okra plants.

I was keen for more cucumber plants because the little forest of seedlings I boasted about a couple of weeks ago was decimated by snails or beetles or something as soon as I put the planter with the plants out in the garden. Seven plants were reduced to just two and a possible third, and since Weed had his surplus seedlings, I grabbed them.

It’s also to my benefit that Weed likes to experiment with all kinds of plants, because I am a simple person with simple pleasures, and was satisfied to have normal okra plants. Thanks to him, my repertoire has now expanded to include Clemson Spineless okra plants. If I manage to grow them to adulthood, I will be interested to compare them to our other okra plants.

One of our latest lot of mini bittergourds. I didn’t realize it at the time but there was a red ladybug in the picture (bottom right). This goes to show that they come around when there’s food for them, because the winter melon plants half a metre away have a small population of aphids on them.

We were also happy enough with our mini bittergourds that we hadn’t considered growing any other bittergourd, but now will be experimenting with a larger variety.

Our pumpkin plants have also been growing readily enough that I felt confident to take on another pumpkin plant. I forget what variety it is, but it will join the butternut pumpkin vine in the old sweet potato patch.

I was also initially thrilled about getting the wax gourd, then was chagrinned when I found that wax gourd is another name for the winter melon. Thankfully, Mother Weed set me right by informing me that this wax gourd is akin to the English marrow. I’m not entirely sure what it will be, but I do like the adventure of growing something new and observing what happens. I’m a little nutty that way, I guess… :)

I’m also happy to share that I’ve finally managed to get more Aussie long bean plants to grow. It appears that the seeds are extra sensitive to moisture, and I had kept the seeds in too moist an environment. Most of them got mouldy and rotted away, but enough germinated that I realized my error. We will definitely be growing more of these plants, because the beans are fat and juicy, reminding me of French beans, and they’re sweet, too! I really must be more diligent and practise successive planting!

© 2012 curiousgardener.com All rights reserved.


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Winter melons on the horizon

The newest female winter melon bud on the left and the first developing fruit on the right!

Well I can’t quite believe it, but it looks like the very first female winter melon flower has set fruit!

It’s been a week since we first spotted the female flower, and the fruit is still on the vine. The petals have dried up, the fruit is still green (and not yellowing), and it appears to be growing bigger!

So it’s safe to say that the first winter melon of our second-generation plants is on its way.

A closer look at the First Fruit! I’ll be happy with whatever size it grows to, but I have to admit I’m dreaming of Chawanmushi’s 20kg winter melon and hoping this fruit tends in that direction…

I say “first” because less than a foot away on the same vine is the next female flower bud! It may not set fruit since there’s already one fruit growing, but I’m sure going to feed the plant well to help it keep up its strength!

I wonder how long the second vine will take to start budding?

© 2012 curiousgardener.com All rights reserved.


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Does crop rotation work?

Long beans are the most common legumes grown in our garden.

Having just a couple of years of what I consider amateur crop growing under my belt, I feel there’s still a lot to learn about growing healthy edible plants. My experience has been mostly to sow seeds and observe how the different plants grow. Yes, I feed the plants with fertilizers, and yes, I’ve done some research on good growing habits, but I haven’t necessarily practised them. Bad me.

One of the common things you read about in edible plant growing is about crop rotation. The standard instructions seem to be to start with legumes, followed by leafy/flowering veggies, followed by fruits, then root veggies before starting back at legumes.

I haven’t tried a cycle of crop rotation yet, because I wanted to work on building up the soil first. That’s why I’ve been using compost and other soil-building components like coffee grounds, blood and bonemeal, volcanic soil and sheep and chicken manure pellets.

What I now realize in retrospect is that a couple of my successes could have something to do with unplanned crop rotation.

My infamous wildly growing snake gourd vine was planted at the same trellis, at the same time, as a few long bean plants. I attributed the growth of the vine to the soil preparation in that planting bed, but now I have to wonder if the long bean plants had something to do with that.

The Australian okra plant sporting an unusually (for us) strong stem and big, healthy leaves (out of shot).

Bean or legume plants are known for their nitrogen fixing capacity. Nodules form along the roots as the plants grow, accumulating nitrogen. When the plants die, you’re supposed to cut off the main stem and allow the roots to decay in the soil, where they will release the stored nitrogen to the next round of plants.

I still have the habit of uprooting my spent plants, and have to consciously remind myself to not disturb the soil and remove the good nitrogen-laden roots every time a cycle of bean plants is over. So this was what I did, and the snake gourd vine flourished. Were the beans responsible? Probably.

Another example is the planting bed where the Simba beans were growing. The bean plants followed brinjal plants, and after the bean plants died prematurely, I replaced them after a week or two by a pair of Australian okra plants. One of the okra plants was bent by rain, and subsequently eaten by snails, but the other grew very well. The stem is stout and strong, and the buds and fruits look nice and healthy. In fact, the harvested fruits have been tender and sweet.

Can I conclude that the preceding bean plants had something to do with this? I’d like to think so. Will I make the effort to try crop rotation in at least one planting bed? For the sake of knowing the answer, I’d say yes. The question of when I’ll do this is a good one, because I like to experiment, as opposed to taking the disciplined approach. Don’t start holding your breath just yet…

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